Neighborhood Guide | 9eme


To kick off our series of neighborhood guides where we plan on sharing our top neighborhood picks for shopping, eating and strolling, I thought that I would start with a quartier that has recently captured my heart with its boutiques, charm, centralized location, delicious goodies and cozy feel.

The 9th arrondissement is centrally located just north of the 1st and south of the 18th arrondissements. While it’s borders technically range from Rue Amsterdam to Rue Faubourg Poissoniere and from Boulevards des Italiens up to Boulevard de Rochechouart, when I refer to “the 9th,” I am specifically referring to the Lorette-Martyrs neighborhood that makes up the triangle between Pigalle, Trinite-d’Estienne-d’Orves, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Cadet, and Saint-Georges metro stations where Rue des Martyrs winds down the middle.

This area is quiet and calm with small streets, classic Haussmanian-style buildings, small boutiques and restaurants, and really no tourist attractions, making it a truly Parisian quartier. Here are some of our favorite spots in the area to help you fall in love with the 9eme like a true local.

Start by walking up Rue des Martyrs where your first stop should be La Chambre aux Confitures (9 rue des Martyrs) where Lise Bienaimé sells her fine jams with recipes and expert techniques that date back to her great-grandfather. Grab some dim sum at Yoom (20 rue des Martyrs), Paris’ first real dim sum spot and pop into 3 par 5 (25/27 rue des Martyrs) for some fun home design and accessories shopping.

As you make your way up the hill, enjoying the view of Sacre-Coeur, stop into Roxan (34 rue des Martyrs) for some fashionable Parisian menswear before crossing the street and turning down Rue Clauzel for some more shopping at L’Oeuf/South Pigalle (9 rue Clauzel) where you can find some hip local designs to add to your Paris look. Tun left at the end of the street and continue shopping at Vanina Escoubet (1 rue Henry Monnier), another local designer for clothing and accessories who has some really great unique pieces. Just a few doors up, shop for some vintage necessities at Celia Darling (5 rue Henry Monnier) before grabbing a delicious chai latte (from Coutume) and home accessories at Le Rocketship (13 bis rue Henry Monnier). The owner, Benoit, will be happy to tell you more about the artists who create every piece sold in his shop. All are locally made, and some even made in the 9th itself!

Wind your way back to Rue des Martyrs via Rue Navrin and stop in the beautiful cafe garden of Hotel Amour (8 rue Navrin). We love their breakfasts but an afternoon coffee or lunch on a sunny day is just what this intimate green garden was made for. The hotel itself is a super stylish boutique hotel that would be a fabulous place to get your Zs while in Paris.

Once you are back on Rue des Martyrs, grab a choux à la crème at Popelini (44 rue des Martyrs) , a pastry shop named after the Italian cook who invented the pâte à choux that sells adorable and delicious cream puffs with a modern twist that are giving macaroons a real run for their money!

Continue up until you hit Place Lino Ventura and stop in for an expertly made coffee at KB Café (formerly Kooka Boora). This cozy coffee shop will give you your boost for the day or provide you with a quiet place to work and relax.


Finally, if you are looking for some great food in the area, don’t miss Le Pantruche (3 rue Victore Masse) where Chef Franck Baranger serves up some superior grub in this bare-bones neo-bestro. His menu includes a celery root soup, oyster tartare, a standout côte de cochon, braised beef cheeks, and a gorgeous Grand Marnier soufflé. Wonderful, friendly service for a very affordable price. If you are in a hurry, however, grab an authentic Italian panini from Da Carmine (61, rue des Martyrs) with delightfully friendly, and sometimes too friendly, service.


Read more about Coutume, Le Rocketship, KB Café and other great coffee spots in our Paris Coffee Round-Up post.



  1. La Chambre aux Confitures, Yoom, Hotel Amour, KB Café — ALL wonderful recommendations; some of my favorite neighborhood spots!

  2. Excellent pick – I couldn’t agree more on your 9th parameters/definition. There’s something about this hood that always makes me feel like home. And kudos on your great photography!

    • There is an amazing neighborhood homely feel to this area, no doubt. Even if you don’t live there, walking down the streets you feel like a local. That is exactly what I love about this spot!

  3. I have recently been discovering this neighborhood as I am opening shop next week. I really love the area – lots about it reminds me of Soho in my hometown (NYC). You did say in the reply above “Recommendations Welcome” so Sasha, I hope you won’t mind me giving a plug to my new space: Sugar Daze Bake Shop – Sugar Daze has been the home of authentic American-style cupcakes in Paris since 2008 – opening June 23 at 20 rue Henry Monnier. If you are in the neighborhood, please stop on by!

  4. […] After 13 years in the corporate world she decided to follow her heart to Paris, like so many of us, and pursue a career in baking, leaving the days of sitting in a cubicle behind. Cat set herself up as an auto-entrepreneur and opened her business four years ago under the name Little Miss Cupcake, running out of a rental kitchen and fulfilling catering requests as they came in. As the business grew, Cat began to think about opening a storefront but didn’t want to sacrifice time with her two kids. Finally, in June of this year, Sugar Daze opened shop in the trendy part of the 9th arrondissement. […]

  5. […] the second edition of our Neighborhood Guide series we move from the 9th arrondissement further south to a pedestrian-dominated, uber-trendy quartier of shopping and lunching known as […]

  6. […] of FSD (Faubourg St Denis) is in the southwestern corner of the 10th Arrt, just east of the 9th Arrt and above the 2ndArrondissement, 10 minutes by foot from another market-street covered in […]

  7. […] da sie auf sehr vielen Seiten zu finden war (vgl. À Savourer!, HiP Paris Blog, David Lebovitz, Paris Up Close & Personal, Pilier des buffet & Hipsters in Paris). So machte ich mich vergangenen Sonntag als erstes zu […]

  8. […] eclectic history of this hip neighborhood on this little stroll, and why not stop to have a look at Savoir Faire Paris’ guide to the 9th arrondissement and some of the great boutiques along the way or finish with an artisanal […]

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